Photo thrills, slow-food feasts & Paris remembers... A week in Paris

My newsletter has a new home and a new name. Now on Substack, Paris, Puces. merges my longstanding 'Life in Paris' round-up with insider intel from the Puces de Saint-Ouen flea market, my new crush.

📸 November is Photo Month in Paris, and the city is buzzing. Photo Days, PhotoSaintGermain and Paris Photo infiltrate museums, galleries and the most unlikely corners of the city – hotel rooms, chapels, secret gardens – offering a kaleidoscope of perspectives from emerging talent to legendary masters. Photography here feels thrillingly alive: permeable to video, sculpture and performance, it’s an open medium whose history is being re-read while its future is imagined in real time. The result? A multi-layered programme of exhibitions, talks and all sorts of surprises – the kind of cultural electricity that reminds us why we love Paris. If you needed an excuse to cross the Seine or explore a new quartier this week – this is it.
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📚 In parallel, the cutting-edge art book fair Offprint opens on Thu – this year at new Left Bank venue Césure. Bringing together over 150 indie, experimental and socially engaged art publishers across photography, design, architecture and art, it’s a vibrant international platform for printed matter and visual culture. This new edition also unfolds a weekend programme of talks and encounters. Go get inspired. Entry is free !

🔥 Our friend Esu Lee is now at the helm of a second restaurant. While Jip continues to serve delicious Parisian-style noodles on Rue de la Roquette, his ambitious new Left-Bank table Orson ignites Saint-Germain with an open-flame menu that reinterprets his Korean heritage across a 4-course, 14-dish tasting menu (€86). Banchan – sashimi, whelks, salsify, crudités, jerky, kimbap – share the stage with meagre, mussels, wagyu and autumnal vegetables, each plate a symphony of smoky flavours.

🍄‍🟫 Local slow-food champions Terroirs d’Avenir have opened La Cantine Terroirs d’Avenir, a weekday lunch spot at 17 rue Morland, an extension of their bakery there. With Franco-Brit chef Thomas Graham (ex-Le Mermoz) at the helm, premium sustainable produce is transformed into simple, ultra-seasonal and delicious dishes. Three courses for €22 – maybe beetroot salad, meatballs with polenta, and rice pudding with plums. What’s not to like?

👔 Suuupply, the young French concept store known for its discerning curation of menswear “essentials for the quality-obsessed” from around the world – from Kamakura shirts to Harley of Scotland, alongside its own line, Museum Garments – opens a first permanent store on Thursday in its hometown, bringing its online edit to life at 27 rue Saintonge, 75003.

🖤And finally, Thursday marks the ten-year anniversary of the terror attacks of November 13, 2015. Parisians are invited all week to leave a candle, a flower or a note at the foot of the Statue of the République, and on Thu from 6pm, to stand together to follow the tribute ceremony, in remembrance of the victims, survivors, and all those affected by the tragedy. Paris se souvient

Thanks for reading

Kate

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Welcome to Paris, Puces. on Substack. Expect the best of : LIFE IN PARIS 🇫🇷 each week, plus expert intel and tips from the world’s most epic FLEA MARKET✨ Art, Fashion, Design !

On Mondays: Life in Paris postcards - a curated mix of sights, bites and delights, celebrating Paris Makers, and the strange, new, true, and beautiful, forever!

On Fridays: Flea market intel - in-depth guides, behind-the-scenes stories and practical tips (this content will eventually be paywalled, but Life in Paris will remain free).

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